Osaka was the first leg of my Japan tour and landing at Kansai International Airport got me all fired up. I had enjoyed myself tremendously the previous time I was in Japan and I just couldn’t wait to get past immigration to start that 17-day trip. The 6.5-hour flight from Kuala Lumpur on Malaysia Airlines was pleasant enough considering I slept through most of it. Immigration was quick, even by the high Singapore Changi Airport standards I got used to. However, as soon as I stepped out of the airport main building after collecting my backpack, I knew it would be a different Japan experience. When I was last there, it was a cold winter and I was not expecting such a warm, humid weather.
Transport to the city is very convenient from the airport. They have direct trains to the main stations – Osaka, Shin-Osaka and Namba – in the city but I decided to settle for a bus since: 1. the stop was right outside of the airport at Terminal 1; and 2. my hotel was closer to JR Namba station where the bus ride ends (it says OCAT on the bus schedule board). The bus leaves from bus stop no. 11 on the right of the airport exit (North Exit). Tickets can easily be bought at vending machines outside. It takes less than an hour from Kansai Airport to JR Namba and costs 1,000JPY. By the way, do not confuse Namba Station (or Osaka Namba) with JR Namba Station. They may share the same name but they are a 15-min walk away from each other, which can be exhausting with all the luggage in the summer heat.
Osaka comes across as a laid-back Tokyo. It’s got all the hustle and bustle but people are a lot more casually dressed, mild-mannered and more…well…laid-back. I was there for only a couple of days so I can’t be a fair judge here, but Osaka feels a lot smaller than Tokyo. In addition, most of the food establishment and bars in Osaka are either at the basement or on higher floors. This makes it harder to gauge the atmosphere and leave it to chance for great finds. Knowing someone familiar with Osaka is important if you want to try the most popular joints there for sure, which sadly I didn’t have.
Dotonbori at night
STAY
We stayed at Smile Hotel off Sakuragawa Station. The walk from JR Namba is roughly 15 minutes and pretty straightforward. Just follow this map.
Smile hotel is only a couple of minutes walk from Sakuragawa Station which gives you access to the subway in Osaka. This train map will help you get by. However, if I had to do it again, I’d find a hotel closer to Namba station which is more central.
If you’ve been to Japan before, you’d be aware of the hotel room sizes. Smile Hotel is no different. You get space just enough to get by. The bed is slightly smaller than a Queen size but comfortable enough for 2. The bathroom is lilliputian but again, enough to get by. As a matter of fact, hotel bathrooms in Japan all seem to come out of the same mould. The room was clean with room service once a day. The staff, while helpful, barely spoke English. Better luck doing your research on the Internet. There is free WiFi throughout the hotel and a fast LAN connection in the room.
Smile Hotel provides free breakfast. The fare, though simple, was very welcome to kick-start our day. You get a selection of breads, croissants, soup and some Japanese rice with pickles as well as coffee and juices.
TO DO
The highlights of my trip in Osaka were probably the food and the shopping. Okay, I don’t usually shop much when I travel but I was looking for cheap lenses for my Nikon and I read that Osaka offers cheaper deals than Tokyo (not necessarily true by the way, as I would find out later on my trip).
Camera Lens Shopping
I tried a number of camera dealers from big boys Bic Camera, and Yodobashi to specialty shops Naniwa, Tokiwa, Kitamura and Obayashi which have a wider range of used lenses. The best deals were at Tokiwa and by a fair amount too. I bought a new Sigma 8-16mm f4.5-5.6 there for about 51000JPY. The same lens at Bic Camera, the next cheapest, was selling for 58000JPY. At the other shops, I saw prices as high as 64000JPY which really made me wonder how these lenses are priced. Tokiwa also has a good range of used lenses at very reasonable prices. I’m still kicking myself for not buying a used Nikkor 85mm f1.4g! You can easily find Tokiwa by alighting at Nipponbashi station and walking down towards Den Den Town. Tokiwa is right across the street from Kuromon market which you can’t miss.
Kuromon Market – Right across Tokiwa
We walked a whole damn lot in Osaka. The first day alone, we covered the entire Namba-Shinsaibashi area, starting with the Namba train station to Nipponbashi, down to Den Den Town, cutting across to Namba Parks, up to Hozenji Yokocho, along Dotonbori and through Shinsaibashi Shopping Arcade and finally to Amerikamura. If you like shopping, you’d probably love it but I’m no shopper and it was a drag really, in the summer heat.
EAT
Sushizanmai Dotonboriten
I didn’t look up any popular restaurants in Osaka before flying there so I had to wing it. Dotonbori is lined with food places offering a variety of dishes. We picked popular sushi chain Sushizanmai without expecting much of it. We were wrong. Not only was the food great, but it was some of the best and most affordable sushi we had on our trip. Walking along Dotonbori, you just can’t miss the place with its massive sign at the entrance. The place was pretty crowded as well but service was extremely efficient. Well worth it!
Dotonbori Takoyaki
The takoyaki we tried at Dotonbori was fantastic. I can’t remember the name of the place but below are a couple of photos. Yes, it is extremely crowded with a long queue outside. But once, you try the food, you appreciate why. I’m a big fan and I loved the takoyaki there!
Shinsekai Izakayas
I think the place I enjoyed myself the most at in Osaka is Shinsekai. Yes, Dotonbori is nice to walk around, but it’s very crowded and after a while, one place looks no different from the rest with the long queues outside.
Shinsekai on the other hand was not as crowded. In fact, they have people outside touting visitors to their establishments. I read that Shinsekai is one of the scarier areas in Osaka where pick-pocketing is not uncommon. But this is Japan we are talking about and there was really nothing frightening about it.
I loved the little izakayas towards the end of Shinsekai further away from the tower. These places could seat at most 5 people, but the feel seemed nice. I couldn’t tryany of them because they were all packed. However, we settled for an unassuming tiny corner shop for some nice kushikatsu. The place was run by an elderly couple and the three patrons there were all in their late years. The service was great, the people very friendly, the beer flowing and the food splendid. It was a great pick.
Following that, we went to an izakaya on the fringe of the main area where a younger local crowd, obviously familiar with the place, and service staff were hanging out. The food was not as nice but the service was pleasant. We ended up in yet another izakaya afterwards, that time on the main touristy stretch. The food was pretty good, the service great with the person serving us speaking fluent English.
Shin-Osaka station ramen
Another really unexpected great meal we had was during our transit time to Hiroshima station at Shin-Osaka station. After walking around to explore the place, we found ourselves at an area underground lined with food establishments. Most could only accommodate about 12 people. We went for a ramen which turned out to be the best ramen I tried during the whole trip. It was a corner joint with one guy preparing our food behind the counter. Pork was tender, broth was thick and strong, egg yolk was soft. If I were ever to go to Osaka again, I’d most definitely try that ramen again…a bowl or two.
Before leaving for Japan, I had made a long list of the various things I wanted to do in Osaka. Shitennoji Temple, Todaiji Temple, Osaka Castle, and more so much more. Turns out, I didn’t do any of the big temples nor the castle. I was miffed at first, but after seeing the temples in Kyoto, I have no regrets at all. Two days and two nights in Osaka was just right in the context of my trip. If I had all the time in the world, I would probably need to spend at least a few months to explore the place and what it has to offer.
Yuna
Ah, that’s what i felt about Osaka. I love Osaka more than Kyoto or Tokyo. 🙂
Johahn
I think I didn’t give myself enough time to appreciate Osaka. I love Kyoto a lot though, perhaps because it was during the festival. 🙂
Yuna
Ah, i missed the festival. -__-“!